Nigeria (1)

We drove north through Benin over the next two days with Campbell and Linnéa, the plan was to enter Nigeria in the North as we all felt that this would be the safest route. Nigeria was in the middle of elections and historically this has led to a little excitement, coupled with the fact that it has been voted most corrupt country in the world we needed to tread carefully.

	We had had lots of discussion about how we were going to handle the border officials and corrupt cops on route and it was agreed that we would only bribe where absolutely necessary. At the entry post at Nikki/Tchikandou, we were however thrown right of sorts by the incredibly nice and helpful guard that issued our visas. The next stop was at the health inspection. Initially I wasn’t sure what was required here, when he asked if we had any meat or fresh produce on board I lied that we had a melon and some mangos. As Jools showed him our yellow fever vaccination cards, I jumped in the truck and moved the butter, cheese, salami, chorizo, yoghurt and crème fresh from the fridge to the rear lock box. Once finished with the vaccine cards the inspector then left the filthy hut that was his office and inspected the inside of our truck. Running his finger along the dust in the bottom shelf of the cupboard he muttered something about cleanliness and left. When asked of the same, Campbell replied “I have one Pineapple”. All done, the inspector then turned back to me and started asking if I have anything for him, some food or drink. I panicked, faced with such health inspecting powers, I was helpless, I needed to think fast, I jumped into the truck and then reached for anything worthless. ‘Laughing cow cheese’, it was a long shot but maybe it just might work. I offered it over and the inspector’s face looked miffed, he sniffed it, and after a pause, accepted the gift and let us pass.

The next stop was customs, a similarly dilapidated building surrounded by broken down machines and detritus.The woman behind the desk executed the task of filling out the carnet so slowly it was as if it was actually her husband’s job and she was just filling in for the day, but no call for bribes. So, full of Nigerian trepidation we set off along the road. As we reached the first small village we were set upon by hoards of locals brandishing smiles and waves. Fearing for our lives we sped onwards as people on the side of the road started throwing greetings at us, and children ran towards us laughing wildly as if possessed. When we were finally stopped, we were sure that the plethora of hand shaking was merely a ploy to assess the weight and cooking time in the big pot on the fire.

Actually, let me make this quite clear. The friendliness and welcome afforded to ourselves in Nigeria far outstrips any other country we have visited, African or European. At each police, army, highway patrol, tax collectors, customs, and vehicle inspectors check points (and there were many), we were always met with a smile a handshake and enthusiastic welcome. Of course there were the odd chancers and requests for money but we were never subjected to any aggression, and passed through them all without a bribe (except for the laughing cow).


				Our route across to the capital Abuja started on some great off-road dirt track, deep puddles, mud and rocky sections. Feeling pleased that we had invested so much in taking the ideal truck for such difficult terrain, I became slightly miffed when I couldn’t keep pace with the locals. Two wheel-drive Toyota Starlets with bald tyres, carrying eight people and giant sacks of grain hanging out of the boot. As it got later in the day we knew that it was likely that we wouldn’t reach tarmac before evening, and preferred to look for a wild camp while we were still in thick bush land. Taking a sharp right down a small foot path we burrowed our way off the main drag and hid Campbell and Linnéa’s landrover behind the Pinzgauer. (the kaki green colour finally a good idea as the pinz blended like a forest elephant).

	In New Busea, a helpful man led us to a cheap motel which had only one decent room left in what looked like a extremely run down Butlins camp. We managed to procure a room for seven U.S dollars with aircon and thankfully one huge bed big enough for all four of us, although not with the owner’s permission. Campbell and Linnéa brought in there petrol stove and we cooked tuna pasta, student style and watched ‘Borat’ on DVD, it reminded me so much of Uni days.

	This motel was a long way in both distance and standard from our next destination, the Sheraton Hotel and Towers in Abuja. We arrived in good time and caught up with Marjon and Simon, and Ian and Jackie. There is an informal relationship between the hotel and overlanders so we were able to park in the car-park, use the hotel facilities, and pay nothing! Originally it was planned to just pick up Angolan Visa’s and then speed on through scary Nigeria, but as things seemed very peaceful in the country and the Angolan embassy wasn’t playing ball, we settled into the pool life at the Sheraton for a few extra days.


	Through the next few days we visited several other embassies and managed to collect Gabon and Congo visas but the ambassador for Angola was on holiday and the DRC ambassador was too scared to take responsibility for anyone travelling in his country.

	By now our numbers had grown some at the Sheraton and even though Simon and Marjon had called it quits to head back to Holland, Mark and Karina joined us in their defender, and James and Genevieve in their Landcruiser.

	Abuja is an amazing city with everything spread out over a large area. When trying to drive one kilometer up the road it can take you ten round-the-houses to get the right exit. With a little time in hand we thought we would get a five month baby scan for Jools.


	We took advice from the ladies working in the business centre and headed for a nearby medical centre. We arrived a little early, so parked up outside and had beans on toast for tea. The doctor was first class and the appointment and scan cost a grand total of twelve pounds. It was great to see the wee one again and was a big reminder of the greater adventure awaiting us after we reach South Africa.

	We left Abuja en masse as a group of five vehicles heading south towards Calabar, still courting warm welcome but needing serious levels of diplomacy to chat our way through various check points.